Thursday, July 18, 2013

Paella - NY Times

From NY Times: http://www.nytimes.com/2013/07/17/dining/paella-by-land-and-sea.html?_r=0


Paella by Land:


INGREDIENTS

12 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs
1 medium-size rabbit, quartered
Salt and pepper to taste
4 links fresh chorizo or good-quality dried chorizo, like Palacios
8 cups chicken broth
3/4 bottle (about 2 3/4 cups) dry white wine
2 teaspoons saffron threads, preferably Iranian
1/4 cup olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
4 cloves garlic, chopped
1/4 pound jamón serrano, roughly chopped
1 1-kilogram bag short-grained Spanish rice, preferably bomba or Calasparra
4 medium-size ripe tomatoes, grated, skin discarded
1 cup green peas (optional)
Piquillo pimento, sliced into strips for garnish (optional)
PREPARATION

1.
Build a medium-hot fire in your grill (when ready, you can hold your hand about 6 inches above the grill for only 2 or 3 seconds).
2.
Season the chicken thighs and rabbit liberally with salt and pepper. Put the thighs, then the rabbit, then the chorizo (if using fresh) on the grill and sear well without cooking through, about 3 to 4 minutes per side for each. (If using dried chorizo, simply slice into chunks and add in step 5.) As each is seared, remove from the grill and set aside. As soon as the chorizo is cool enough, slice it diagonally into bite-size chunks.
3.
Meanwhile, combine the chicken broth, wine and saffron in a medium saucepan, bring just to a simmer, then set on the side of the grill to keep warm.
4.
Place a large paella pan on the grill, add the olive oil and heat until hot but not smoking. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until translucent, about 3 minutes, adjusting the pan on the heat as needed to prevent burning. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute, then add the jamón and cook, stirring, until it is just heated through, about 3 or 4 minutes.
5.
Add the rice and stir until well coated, then add the tomatoes and smooth out the rice to an even thickness. Slowly and without stirring, add enough of the broth mixture to leave just a thin layer of broth above the rice, then tuck the chicken, rabbit and chorizo pieces into the rice. Simmer slowly, moving the pan around on the fire as needed to keep the simmer going; avoid boiling. Gently add small amounts of liquid as needed so it’s not totally dry. When the rice is creamy and just al dente and the chicken, rabbit and chorizo are cooked through (should take 20 to 35 minutes), remove pan from heat and stir in the peas, if using. If using pimento strips, place on top.
YIELD About 12 servings


Paella by Sea:


INGREDIENTS

6 cups chicken stock
4 cups dry white wine
3 cups clam juice
1 1/2 pounds (about 14 to 18) extra-large shrimp, peeled and deveined, shells reserved
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 pounds pork butt, cut into 1-inch cubes (or substitute pork loin)
1 pound cured chorizo in medium dice (or substitute linguiça or andouille)
2 cups small-dice onion, peels reserved
1/3 cup minced garlic
2 cups crushed tomatoes
4 pounds bomba rice (or substitute other short-grained rice)
48 littleneck clams
3 roasted red peppers, peeled and cut into strips, for garnish
FOR SECRET FLAVOR WEAPON

1 cup dry sherry
3 tablespoons cumin seeds
3 tablespoons smoked paprika
2 tablespoons fresh thyme
2 bay leaves
1 tablespoon saffron threads
FOR GARLIC SCAPE RELISH

2 cups (about 20) garlic scapes (or substitute scallions)
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
1/2 cup toasted pine nuts
2 tablespoons grated lemon zest
PREPARATION

1.
Combine the chicken stock, white wine, clam juice, 1 cup water and shrimp shells in a large pot. Add any onion peelings or vegetable scraps left from preparation. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce heat to medium and simmer for 30 minutes, then strain, return the liquid to pot and set aside.
2.
While stock cooks, prepare the secret flavor weapon. Heat the sherry in a small pan until it is just beginning to simmer, then remove from the heat. Add the remaining ingredients, stir well and set aside.
3.
Build a medium-hot fire in grill (when ready, you can hold your hand about 6 inches above the grill for only 2 or 3 seconds).
4.
Prepare the relish. Rub the scapes with about 1 tablespoon olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper and grill until just toasty, about 2 minutes a side. Remove from heat and chop roughly. Combine the scapes with the remaining olive oil, pine nuts and lemon zest, mix well, and set aside.
5.
Put 1/2 cup olive oil in a paella pan or 20-inch camp skillet. Put over the fire and heat until hot but not smoking. Add the pork butt and sausage and brown lightly on both sides, about 6 to 8 minutes total. Add the onions and cook, stirring frequently, until soft, about 3 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and half the stock mixture, bring to simmer, then add the rice and the Secret Flavor Weapon. Stir well to combine, then smooth it out to an even layer (you should have just a layer of liquid between 1/4 and 1/2 inch on top) and allow to come back to a slow simmer.
6.
Push the shrimp and clams down into the simmering mixture so they are covered by the liquid, being careful not to stir the mixture. Move the pan just enough to the side of the fire so the liquid continues to simmer slowly. Add liquid as needed to maintain that very thin visible layer for 20 minutes, but do not move the rice around. After 20 minutes stop adding liquid and continue to cook until all visible liquid is absorbed and rice is tender but not mushy, from 5 to 15 minutes. Remove from fire, lay peppers on top, spoon on the Garlic Scape Relish and serve.
YIELD 12 to 16 servings

Friday, July 5, 2013

Empanadas

From NY Times - http://www.nytimes.com/2013/07/03/dining/empanadas-the-pies-with-a-passport.html?_r=0

Corn empanadas first, then beef below.


FOR THE DOUGH
4 ounces lard or butter, plus more for brushing tops
1 1/2 teaspoons fine sea salt
750 grams all-purpose flour, about 6 cups, more as needed

FOR THE FILLING
Lard or olive oil, or a combination, for sautéing
1 cup diced onion
1/2 pound potatoes, peeled and diced
2 cups fresh corn kernels
2 garlic cloves, mashed to a paste
1 teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted and ground
2 teaspoons chopped thyme
Salt and pepper
Chicken broth as necessary, or use water
2 red bell peppers, roasted till blackened, then peeled and diced
1 cup diced cooked ham or Canadian bacon, optional
1/2 cup ricotta
Large pinch cayenne
2 ounces grated Gruyère cheese
1/2 cup chopped scallions, white and green parts

PREPARATION
1. Make the dough: Put 2 cups boiling water, 4 ounces lard and 1 1/2 teaspoons salt in a large mixing bowl. Stir to melt lard and dissolve salt. Cool to room temperature.

2. Gradually stir in flour with a wooden spoon until dough comes together. Knead for a minute or two on a floured board, until firm and smooth. Add more flour if sticky. Wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.

3. Make the filling: Melt 3 tablespoons lard in a wide heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add onion and cook briskly, stirring, until softened and lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Add potatoes, corn, garlic, cumin and thyme. Season generously with salt and pepper and stir well. Add about 1 cup broth or water and simmer until potatoes are softened and liquid has evaporated, about 5 to 7 minutes.

4. Transfer mixture to a large mixing bowl. Add roasted peppers, ham, ricotta and cayenne and stir well. Taste and adjust seasoning for full flavor (intensity will diminish upon cooling). Stir in Gruyère and scallions. Cool to room temperature, then cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

5. Divide chilled dough into 1-ounce pieces and form into 2-inch diameter balls. Roll each piece into a 4 1/2-inch circle. Lay circles on a baking sheet lightly dusted with flour.

6. Moisten outer edge of each round with water. Put about 2 tablespoons filling in the center of each round. Wrap dough around filling to form empanada, pressing edges together. Fold edge back and finish by pinching little pleats or crimping with a fork.

7. Heat oven to 375 degrees. Place empanadas on parchment-lined or oiled baking sheet, about 1 inch apart. Brush tops lightly with lard or butter and bake on top shelf of oven until golden, 10 to 15 minutes. Serve warm.

YIELD 36 empanadas

NOTE: Dough and filling may each be prepared a day or two in advance. The empanadas may be assembled several hours ahead of time and refrigerated, uncovered. Bring to room temperature before baking.


Beef Empanadas:


FOR THE DOUGH
4 ounces lard or butter, plus more for brushing tops
1 1/2 teaspoons fine sea salt
750 grams all-purpose flour, about 6 cups, more as needed

FOR THE FILLING
1 pound beef chuck, in 1/8-inch dice (or very coarsely ground)
Salt and pepper
Lard or olive oil, or a combination, for sautéing
1 cup diced onion
2 ounces diced chorizo
1/2 pound potatoes, peeled and diced
4 garlic cloves, mashed to a paste
2 teaspoons chopped thyme
2 teaspoons chopped marjoram or 1 teaspoon oregano
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 tablespoon pimentón dulce or paprika
Large pinch cayenne
Beef or chicken broth, as necessary, or use water
1/2 cup chopped scallions, white and green parts
1/4 cup chopped pitted green olives
2 hard-cooked eggs, sliced

PREPARATION
1. Make the dough: Put 2 cups boiling water, 4 ounces lard and 1 1/2 teaspoons salt in large mixing bowl. Stir to melt lard and dissolve salt. Cool to room temperature.

2. Gradually stir in flour with a wooden spoon until dough comes together. Knead for a minute or two on a floured board, until firm and smooth. Add more flour if sticky. Wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.

3. Make the filling: Season chopped beef generously with salt and pepper and set aside for 10 minutes. Melt 3 tablespoons lard in a wide heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add beef and fry until nicely browned, stirring throughout to keep pieces separate, about 5 minutes.

4. Turn heat down to medium and add onion and chorizo. Keep turning mixture with a spatula, as if cooking hash, until onion is softened and browned, about 10 minutes. Add potatoes, garlic, thyme and marjoram and stir well to incorporate. (Add a little more fat to pan if mixture seems dry.) Season again with salt and pepper and let mixture fry for 2 more minutes. Stir in tomato paste, pimentón and cayenne, then a cup of broth or water. Turn heat to simmer, stirring well to incorporate any caramelized bits.

5. Cook for about 10 more minutes, until both meat and potatoes are tender and the sauce just coats them — juicy but not saucy is what you want. Taste and adjust seasoning for full flavor (intensity will diminish upon cooling). Stir in scallions and cool to room temperature, then cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

6. Divide chilled dough into 1-ounce pieces and form into 2-inch diameter balls. Roll each piece into a 4 1/2-inch circle. Lay circles on a baking sheet lightly dusted with flour.

7. Moisten outer edge of each round with water. Put about 2 tablespoons filling in the center of each round, adding a little chopped green olive and some hard-cooked egg to each. Wrap dough around filling to form empanada, pressing edges together. Fold edge back and finish by pinching little pleats or crimping with a fork.

8. Heat oven to 375 degrees. Place empanadas on parchment-lined or oiled baking sheet, about 1 inch apart. Brush tops lightly with lard or butter and bake on top shelf of oven until golden, 10 to 15 minutes. Serve warm.

YIELD 36 empanadas

NOTE: Dough and filling may each be prepared a day or two in advance. The empanadas may be assembled several hours ahead of time and refrigerated, uncovered. Bring to room temperature before baking.